We are to the point of needing to replace our drive tires, we run wide base singles, and so some research is in order. Michelin was the first to bring out the wide base single in the late 90's. Now several manufacturers have thrown their hats into the ring. We need to look at all brands that will meet our needs.
On the sidewall there is an alphabet soup along with a mathematicians dream. So lets look at what all those letters and numbers mean. Every manufacturer is going to put their name on the tire (Michelin) that’s a given, tire model would be next (XZA Energy). We'll use the size 295 80 R 22.5 for our example, this would be an all position tire. The 295 is the tread width in millimeters. 80 is the aspect ratio of the tread vs. the sidewall or the sidewall height is 80% of the tread width. The R means this tire is a radial, not to many bias tires out here anymore but there are some, and of course the 22.5 is the required wheel size, a 22 1/2" wheel. These characters are usually in the largest sized print, but there are lots of smaller characters that do have meaning.
The DOT code is required by law to be on every tire, not necessarily on both sides, near the rim. It is usually 12 characters after the letters DOT; the first four are the manufacturer and plant code. The next four are at the discretion of the manufacturer, the last four are the date code in the format WWYY, and a date code of 2313 means the tire was built in the 23rd week of 2013. You can tell how old a tire is using this code; the Tire Manufacturers Association recommends that you not run tires over seven years old. I check the date code of all tires before I buy them. It may surprise you just how old some new tires really are.
The load range is marked as a letter B thru M excluding the I, load range is tied to the ply rating, B being a 2 ply rating and each letter gaining 2 ply ratings up to M at a 22 ply rating. The weight capacity is determined by the DOT with their test procedures at a specified air pressure. The load index/speed rating looks something like 144/141L or 161L, the first example is for a single/dual application - 6175 lbs. / 5675 lbs. load index with a speed rating L or 75 MPH. The second example is for a wide single, 161 = 10,200 lbs. load index, speed rating of L or 75 MPH. Speed ratings are on all tires, truck tires are rated for B (30 MPH) thru N (87 MPH) excluding I and O. All these ratings are assuming tires are properly inflated for the load they are carrying and operating in the conditions the tire was designed for. There are other markings, but they don't mean anything to those who didn't build the tire, like me.
Now we know what the markings on the sidewall mean, we need to choose a tire. There are a few questions to ask. Do I want the longest wearing, the best ride, or fuel savings? How about traction? Deep lug or a good all position tread? What are the most common road conditions? Ice, snow, mud or will I be on good paved roads, city or highway. Will load capacity be a consideration? Is price going to play a major part in the decision?
The best tire for me is going to wear like iron, have traction like glue, ride like the proverbial Cadillac, aid in fuel savings and is the lowest cost tire on the market, I’m dreaming of course because we all know that’s not going to happen. I need to decide what’s most important to our operation. Fuel is our largest expense so fuel economy is first, load rating is not an issue on the drives as most wide single tires are rated at 10,200 lb. Ride is what it is, however wide singles tend to ride smoother than duals, two sidewalls vs. four.
Traction, traction ratings are marked on passenger tires but not on truck tires, you have to ask. Ratings are AA, A, B, C, AA as the best, this rating lets us know how easily a tire will spin or slide. Since we spend most of our time on paved roads a deep lug mud/snow tire is not high on the list of needs. We run wide singles so tread choice leaves much to be desired, lugs for drives, it is what it is. If I were running duals I would run a good all position tire in all positions. Do your research and choose what works best for you.
Price is a component we cannot overlook. Should you find the "perfect" tire, it meets most of your most important specs, price vs. value must be considered. Tires have a ROI (return on investment) value like many other things purchased for the truck. If you were to buy the higher priced more fuel-efficient tires will they save enough fuel to offset the extra cost of the tires. Fuel-efficient tires typically have less tread depth than a conventional tire; it will probably wear out sooner. You shouldn't really be looking at the price, the value is the question; mileage vs. miles. Driving slower will extend tire life also helping with fuel savings.
For the most part, choosing a tire is simple, if you’re happy with what you have; replace them with the same thing. If your not happy, do your research and choose informed. Talk to your tire supplier, get on the internet, shop and compare. I don't recommend you buy something really off the wall, if you have a catastrophic failure (blowout) you may not be able to replace it. All position tires is just that, they will work in any position, steer, drive or trailer. Drives are designed for the drive position, will work on the trailer but you don't need the drive tread there. Trailer tires are made for trailers or any dead axle, they typically cannot handle the torque of the drives, or the side loads of the steer positions.
Who will win, Bridgestone, Continental, Goodyear, Michelin, or are there more options. I will do my research and make an informed decision.